On the Moab 2 vs Moab 3 question: I A/B’d them this spring in the Appalachian “wet roots and leaves” theme park and on some PNW boardwalk slime. The outsole compound is still TC5+, so don’t expect Megagrip miracles. The 3’s revised lug geometry bites a hair better when you roll onto the forefoot-think “minor software patch,” not “new operating system.” On wet roots, I’d call it a 5-10% confidence bump-still very much in the “step like you mean it” category. Heel-lug wear is modestly improved: my Moab 2 heels were hockey-puck smooth around 200-250 miles; the Moab 3’s kept their braking edges maybe 50-80 miles longer on the same abrasive granite. Not life-changing, but I noticed.
A few terrain/condition quirks that haven’t been covered yet:
Wet leaves over rock: The Moabs treat leaf slime like it’s made of buttered Teflon. Shorter, deliberate steps help more than trying to “edge”-the midsole just isn’t torsionally stiff enough to make micro-edging reliable there.
Boardwalks and algae: TC5+ can feel like you’re auditioning for a cartoon pratfall. If this is your normal, studs or microspikes in shoulder season are sanity-savers.
Slush and shallow snow: The gusseted tongue keeps splash out, but once water comes over the cuff it’s Ziplock-bag time. WP Moabs dry slowly; if stream hopping is on the menu, non-WP + wool socks + fast drain/dry wins. Neoprene socks are a surprisingly good cheat for snowmelt days.
Clay vs loam mud: The lug pattern doesn’t self-clean well in sticky clay. On loamy, rooty trails it’s okay. A trekking pole “scrape” routine every few minutes keeps you from skating.
Hot rock and slickrock wear: On sun-baked sandstone, the rubber softens a bit (grip feels better) but chews through heel lugs faster. Expect accelerated rounding if you live on slickrock.
Sidehilling in tussock/alpine meadow: The platform is fairly wide, which helps, but the shank is still flexy. A firmer insole plus snugging the midfoot with a surgeon’s knot tames the ankle roll feeling.
Stream crossings depth check: The tongue height on the Moab mids is just shy of what I’d call “safe wade.” If the water hits the top of the rand, slow down-one inch higher and you’re bailing boots at the next break.
Long days on talus: Lack of a rock plate shows up as forefoot tenderness. If you’re stuck with them, throw in a stiffer insole (Tread Labs/Superfeet) and consider thin volume reducers to keep your foot from sloshing on sidehills.
Longevity quirks and fixes not yet mentioned:
- Preemptive goo: A thin smear of Aquaseal SR along the forefoot flex line where the rand meets the mesh saves you from the classic “peel at 300-400 miles.”
- Mesh fray prevention: Hit the forefoot mesh with a light coat of a DWR spray-not magic armor, but it reduces grit grinding the fibers.
- Drying: Boot dryer on low or room temp only. High heat cooks the glue; that’s how you earn surprise delams.
Climate/altitude extras:
- Cold temps: Same story for the 3 as the 2-the EVA firms up and the rubber feels glassy. They’re fine with microspikes; don’t bother with anything stiffer.
- High, dry air: The membrane actually behaves-noticeably less clammy. In humid summer, the Ventilator still beats the WP version by a mile.
Fit hacks:
- Low-volume feet: Throw in a 1-2 mm volume reducer beneath the insole to kill heel lift without death-gripping the laces.
- Wide feet: The wide version is genuinely wide in the forefoot; great for splay, but lock the midfoot or you’ll swim on off-camber traverses.
If wet slab/roots are your daily diet, it’s worth jumping to a Megagrip-soled boot (Hoka Kaha 2, La Sportiva Nucleo II) or even something like Scarpa Rush 2 (PRESA rubber) which feels stickier in that specific “banana peel” zone. If you like everything else about the Moab, the sweet-spot setup for me has been: non-WP in summer, WP in shoulder season, firmer insole, preemptive rand seal, and low gaiters for brush and splash. Keeps the “surprise skating” to a minimum and the boots alive long enough to justify their keep.